A brittle, decadent confection with a deliciously mysterious past.
Imagine a sweet that isn't soft or pudding-like. Instead, it snaps with a satisfying crack. This is Sohan Halwa, a dense, brittle confection studded with nuts, rich with the flavor of caramelized milk and ghee.
But where did this unique treat come from? Its origin is a delicious puzzle, with legends stretching from ancient Persia to the bustling cities of the Indian subcontinent.
One popular tale speaks of a confectioner named Sohan in the city of Multan. He tried to rescue stale milk with flour and sugar, and in a moment of culinary genius, accidentally created a masterpiece.
Another story credits Diwan Sawan Mal, the powerful 19th-century governor of Multan, with its invention. A sweet fit for a ruler, born in a historic seat of power.
Yet, some historians look further east, to Persia. A similar sweet called 'sohan' exists in the city of Qom. Did travelers bring this recipe along ancient trade routes to the subcontinent?
Meanwhile, in Delhi, the legendary Ghantewala sweet shop, founded in 1790, served Sohan Halwa to Mughal emperors. For over 200 years, it was a star of the capital's culinary world.
Making Sohan Halwa is an art of patience. It's a slow, meticulous process where milk, sugar, and flour are simmered for hours, requiring constant, rhythmic stirring.
Rich, clarified butter, or ghee, is the secret. It's stirred in continuously, preventing the mixture from sticking and allowing it to caramelize to a perfect, nutty richness.
Before it sets, the fragrant concoction is enhanced with saffron and cardamom. It's then poured into molds and generously studded with pistachios, almonds, and walnuts.
The sweet itself changes with geography. In parts of India, it's a light golden, hard disc. The famous Multani version, however, is often darker, richer, and can be slightly softer.
More than just a dessert, it's a cherished offering. Often packaged in beautiful, ornate tin cans, giving Sohan Halwa is a traditional act of love and respect.
According to historian Shakir Hussain Shakir, the halwa was first made in homes and sent with daughters to their new families. It only became a commercial icon in the mid-20th century.
Filmmaker Nilofer Afridi Qazi sees deeper meaning in its shape. Could the traditional disc echo the spiritual circles of the Sufis of Multan—a symbol with 'no beginning or end'?
So, who can claim it? Perhaps no one, and everyone. Sohan Halwa's mysterious past is a reminder of a shared culinary heritage that transcends modern borders.
Each bite is a taste of history—a story of happy accidents, royal courts, and ancient journeys. The next time you try it, savor the delicious mystery.
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